Saturday, September 19, 2026

The House on Merrits Avenue

On Merritts Avenue, in downtown Atlanta, not far from the Varsity drive-in restaurant and Georgia Tech University, squatted a old white-wood house. It wasn’t dilapidated, but it never received a fresh coat of paint, either. This was the home of Eveready Plastics, a laboratory for making ear molds for hearing aids, my father’s mail-order business.
In my teen years, and again, later, I worked in that old house, as my father's employee. After the long drive from our rural home, always leaving early enough to start work at 8:00 am, he would park the old Oldsmobile in the back of the house. We entered through the basement, where a mean-looking German shepherd growled and barked and leapt against the wire of his large cage. This was no pet, but a thoroughly frightening guard dog. I kept my distance.
At first, in my early teens, I worked with Bobby, the secretary, in the small room to the right of the front door. She taught me how to file business papers and correspondence and advised me to learn shorthand as well as typing. Later, when Bobby was gone and I was secretary, I worked in the larger, brighter room to the left of the front door. By now it was my office. I opened and sorted the mail and took the day’s orders for ear molds into the lab, laying the little boxes with impressions of each customer’s ear in a row on the workbench and the order form under each one.
The cardboard mailing box and the plastic box the ear mold went in

I learned how to write a business letter and how to patiently uncoil tangled rubber tubing, and I cleaned out and organized the files. The reward for that otherwise undesirable task was the many letters I found to my father from business associates, praising his integrity.
The large center room of the house was the lab itself, with its noisy electric tools and acrid smell of hot plastic. Everyone in the lab worked on equal footing—my father, the boss; Henry, a black man (at a time in Georgia when such a thing was not done); Woody, an alcoholic until my father urged him into AA; the Georgia Tech students, working part-time—six or seven employees at the height of the business. They were a jovial bunch, laughing and easy with each other. There were no women in the lab, but sometimes, if time was tight for getting all the orders out by the end of the workday, my father would call me in for the final step: buffing the ear molds to a glowing shine. The machine I used shined my fingernails at the same time.
Behind the lab was the kitchen, with a tiny screened-in porch at its back side, one story above the Oldsmobile parked below. The refrigerator was fully stocked with Coca-Colas, in glass bottles, for anyone to have at any time. We ate our lunches at the wooden kitchen table, all of us together. Sometimes my father sent me next door to pick up a lunch for us from what he called the Greasy Spoon. Sometimes we all had steak, which Henry cooked, smothered with onions and gravy.
At one point in my growing-up years, my father bought the Atlanta Stationery and Printing Company and moved the printing presses into the basement of Eveready Plastics. One of those presses was a machine for printing numbers onto hard plastic disks. When an order for these came in, the job fell to me. As I pressed the handle of the machine, repetitively, to burn a series of white numbers onto a black disk, I forestalled boredom and practiced my French by saying the numerals in French.
The house of Eveready Plastics was musty and old. It smelled of hot plastic, smoke from fried foods, old wooden walls, decades of papers. The basement smelled of dampness and dog and printer’s ink. I liked the old house and my work there. I knew I would never be a career secretary, Bobby’s mentorship notwithstanding, and maybe I was given a break with the work because I was the boss’s daughter, but I was learning skills that would stay with me the rest of my life—typing, filing, business relationships (but not shorthand, which I quickly forgot). My boss didn't mind if I read a book when work was slow. The employees were polite and mildly deferential to me. 
    Most of all, those were years of getting to know my father, aspects of him outside the family, his relationships with other kinds of people. I saw the traits he deliberately tried to instill in his children—respect, equality, generosity, honesty—manifested in the ways he behaved in the real world. Whatever has happened by now to that old white house on Merritts Avenue, it is in my memory a house of merit.


Tuesday, September 1, 2026

Backpacking in the Trinity Alps of Northern California

     My friend Sarah and I didn't get started on the Long Canyon Trail in the Trinity Alps Wilderness Area until 2:30 in the afternoon, but we were only hiking 5 1/2 miles and figured that even with full packs for this seven-day backpacking trip, we would have plenty of time to get to our proposed campsite at Deer Lake.
    Oh, how wrong we were! Long Canyon kicked our butts! It was a relentless uphill trail for three and a half miles and steep, steep, steep for the last mile and a half. Late as it was getting, I called for a rest two or three times in that last climb. On the last rest stop, I saw my calf muscles twitching with tiny movements, like a sparkler under the skin. 
    Nonetheless, when we rounded the pass and started downslope to Deer Lake, I wasn't too tired for the majestic sunset over the mountains and lake.
Me, on the way to Deer Lake

    I was, however, too tired to eat. As soon as the tent was up, I crawled in and fell asleep,
    The next morning I was as enthusiastic and ready as ever. The pattern had been set—steep!—but my muscles never threatened to quit on me again. We made some awesome ascents and hiked through gorgeous county—peaks as sharp and rugged as they come (the Sawtooth Ridge was especially impressive)

meadows rich with autumn colors

creekside campsites, more glorious sunsets seen from rocks we climbed for the sight (a "tequila rock" as the camper we met at Horseshoe Lake called it), 

and beautiful green lakes tucked under peaks, perfect for swimming.
At Summit Lake, after a swim

    Dragonflies by the score. Tadpoles crowding the water's edge at Luella Lake. Tiny frogs leaping ahead of us at Bear Creek, so many it was hard not to step on them. A long entertaining show of fish jumping for flies at Summit Lake. Hawks. Darlingtonia. A ferocious windstorm at Summit Lake that had us sleeping fitfully, and, otherwise, perfect weather. One hardship was that I had somehow left my hat at home, but, as luck would have it, at the second campsite some previous camper had left a deck of cards and a hat sitting on a stump. I didn't take the cards, but the hat was a godsend.
In my "borrowed" hat
    Of course, all the wonders of the trail and the mountains are only the augmentation of good companionship. Sarah lives in Pennsylvania, where the hiking is steep but nothing like in the Trinity Alps (as for that, I live in the Applegate, where the trails are often steep but nothing like the Trinity Alps). She loved the steep granite landscapes, the beautiful lakes and streams (did I mention that the meadows were mostly still fed by lovely gurgling meadow streams?), the strenuous demands of the trail—the hardest hiking she had ever done, she said—the bright cold water for dips in creeks and lakes, the autumnal meadows, the big trees. 
                                                        photo by Diana Coogle

Half my age and strong and fit for the trail,

she never complained that I was slow on the trail or snored in the tent or cramped her style. In fact, our styles, like our tempers, meshed well. Nor did she seem to mind that I depended on her greatly superior map-reading skills. It was she who kept us on route (and not her fault when we missed a trail turn-off and hiked one and a half extra miles on what was already our longest day with one of our steepest ascents), and it was she who kept the stats. For anyone interested, I've listed them below, along with our route, after I sign off with a selfie of two very happy Trinity Alps hikers.

(All photos by Sarah Bay Nawa unless otherwise noted.)
 

Day 1—Long Canyon TH to Deer Lake (no other campers)
    5.5 miles
Day 2—Deer Lake to camp on the confluence of Bear Creek and Swift Creek (no other campers)
    8 miles
Day 3—Swift Creek to Ward Lake (no other campers)
    5.8 miles
Day 4—Ward Lake to Horseshoe Lake (one other camper)
    1.5 miles
Day 5—Horseshoe Lake to Deer Creek Camp (no other campers)
    Up Mumford Pass (!)
    9.9 miles
Day 6—Deer Creek Camp to Summit Lake (3 other tents of 2 people each)
    4.5 miles
Day 7—Summit Lake to Long Canyon TH (2 sets of 2 hikers at Deer Creek Pass)
    6.3 miles

Total elevation gain: 10,130 feet
Totall milage: 41.7
Passes climbed: 
    Bee Tree Gap—7400 feet
    Deer Creek Pass—7485 feet
    Black Basin Pass—7150 feet
    Mumford Pass—7200 feet
    Siligo Pass—7500 feet
Four lakes, 9 swims
Seven glorious days


Thursday, August 13, 2026

Internet Woes

     When I came home from Scotland in early July, I had no internet. When at last the technicians came out, they looked around and fiddled with their computers and finally told me they could no longer bring me service. I live too far up the mountain. 
    Now what? My son googled the problem (I had no internet, remember) and discovered that Starlink was the only company that would service my little spot on the planet. So I made an appointment for a Starlink installation.
    By the time the installer got here, I had been without connection to the cybersphere for a month.
    It was an interesting hiatus. 
    I quickly learned that it's not necessary to look online for the weather every day. Sometimes an idle thought would suggest a google search before I remembered I couldn't do that. The thought slipped by, easily enough. And I found out that I could, after all, overcome my daily obsession with New York Times games. 
    But I couldn't access Google Drive to work on documents for a book I'm co-writing. I couldn't check email, so I got behind on important work (book editing, board meetings, Applegater). Consequently, I spent a lot of time at the Applegate library, indoors when it was open, sitting on its front-porch bench to use its internet when it wasn't open or going all the way to the Medford library—if it was open. At the beginning of August, inundated with Applegater articles to edit by deadline, I spent three whole days at the Good Bean cafe, where, for the price of coffee and lunch, I could do my work in a pleasant, quietly bustling atmosphere. 
    What I discovered in that month of disconnectedness is that internet at home is, if not absolutely necessary, pretty close to it. The inconvenience was hefty. I don't like Elon Musk and I hate the satellites that cross the sky one after another after another. Nonetheless, I am grateful for Starlink, and, I have to say, the customer service was excellent.
    And now, not only am I back online, but the internet connection is superior to the old system. No more lag while I'm on Zoom. No more computer black-out while I'm doing an online yoga class. And, the biggest bonus of all, for the first time ever I can watch movies. Starting with Ted Lasso tonight.

Thursday, July 23, 2026

The Isle of Skye

     I thought I was going to Scotland just for the hiking, but as it turned out, I enjoyed touristy things on the Isle of Skye, where Margaret and I spent the second week of our trip, almost as much. 
    Legends were fun—the Holy Pool of St. Fillan (where I swam), the monster of Loch Ness (where I also swam).

The captain of our Loch Ness boat ride told of being on a research boat when a submerged camera came up with a photo of the monster, which he showed us. He let us gasp in disbelief a few minutes before telling us the camera had found a submerged life-size model used for a Hollywood film.
    Connections with my academic past made castles and museums fun. Walking across the moors in the dramatic rain and wind was like stepping into Wuthering Heights. Seeing the stone ruins of Urquart Castle on Loch Ness reminded me of the Old English poem "The Ruin" and that the Anglo-Saxons walked among Roman ruins just as Scots walk among Medieval ruins. At the MacDonalds' Armadale Castle

I not only was in the presence of the Gothic architecture I had studied, but in the museum there I recognized the Anglo-Saxon culture of lords, thanes, and hall life in the Scottish clan culture of the same era. The museums told of Viking raids in Scotland as I had read about them in Old English texts. Everywhere I was reminded of Mary Queen of Scots, beheaded by Queen Elizabeth, and the Jacobite Rebellion after Elizabeth's death, the war between Catholics and Protestants, and the Scots trying to put James I of Scotland on the throne—history of importance to much of the literature I have studied. The nineteenth-century novelist Sir Walter Scott; that great man of eighteenth-century letters, Samuel Johnson; Johnson's excellent biographer James Boswell—these men had stayed at Dunvegan Castle

(of the MacLeod clan and still occupied today); we read their letters of thanks, in their handwriting. We peered down the Dunvegan Castle dungeon, deep and narrow and made of clammy stone, where one clan chief had put his wife for fourteen years. It was in such a dungeon that the Red Crosse Knight had been thrown, personifying Despair, in Edmund Spenser's six-book, seventeenth-century poem, The Faerie Queene. We saw many monuments and tributes to the Scottish Brigade of World War I, who fought so fiercely in their kilts that they were called the "ladies from hell." 
    The language was also an unexpected enjoyment. Gaelic, Welsh, and Scots-Gaelic are their own language family, unconnected to either Germanic or Romance languages. Generally, my knowledge of French, Latin, and English is a basis of familiarity in European countries, but in Scotland, where road signs were in both Gaelic and English, I could comprehend nothing of the Gaelic, even though both languages use the same alphabet. 
    A third surprise was our stop for breakfast at Sligachan Hotel at the base of the Black Cuillin ridge. Lining the walls in all the hallways were photos and placards about famous mountain climbers who had been there. I remembered then that the Scots were great mountain climbers as well as great walkers. Many came to the Black Cuillin mountains to train for ascents of Mt. Everest, among them the famous duo John MacKenzie and Norman Collie.
Statues of MacKenzie and Collie above the Sligachan Hotel
When a Nepali sherpa came to Sligachan, he climbed to the top of Cuillin and back in less than an hour—barefoooted. Being doubted for this achievement, he got up the next morning and did it again, faster, a record that wasn't broken till the fifties. Boswell and Johnson also stayed at the inn. Boswell hiked up the mountain, I learned from the placard, but "the portly Johnson did not."
    There is a legend that anyone who put their face in the Sligachan River for seven seconds would receive eternal beauty. I figured that such a benefit was more difficult for someone of my age, so I made sure to leave my face in the cold water for a count of fourteen.




Sunday, July 12, 2026

Hiking the West Highland Way in Scotland

     Eight days. Ninety-six miles. By foot, with packs. 
    Over the moors, in the blustery wind and driving rain,
                                                                            photo by Margaret della Santina

beside Loch Lomond for two days (and twice a swim),
                                                                            photo by Margaret della Santina

past crumbling ruins of ancient stone huts and churches,
                                                                                        photo by Diana Coogle

past sheep grazing trail-side and dotting the far hills, up the Devil's Staircase to a grand view of Scottish peaks,
At the top of the Devil's Staircase             photo by a willing hiker

up Conic Hill to a grand view of Loch Lomond, up one hill after another, up and down the old stone military road, on the trail through moors and woods, through the graceful and grand old native oaks,
                                        photo by Margaret della Santina

past waterfalls and waterfalls and waterfalls cascading down rock faces,
                                        photo by Margaret della Santina

past plantations of non-native fir trees waiting to be timbered, past the ugly devastation of clearcuts with their stumps and piles of slash 
and exposed earth (everywhere else we saw earth only on trails), past purple-blooming heather
                                                                        photo by Margaret della Santina

and yellow fields of buttercups and tall purple foxglove, past green, green, green expanses (grass, heather, ferns), past the highland "coo" (cow) with its shaggy red hair falling over its eyes,
                                                                            photo by Margaret della Santina

past centuries-old rock walls winding across the landscape,
                                                                            photo by Margaret della Santina

under the looming peak of Buachaillie Etive Mór (the Big Shepherd of Etive, "the most iconic and most photographed peak in Scotland"),
                                                                        selfie by Margaret della Santina

 and at last, after the seven or ten or fifteen miles of the day, to whatever lodging we had booked for the night: an 18th-century inn
                                                                        photo by a willing stranger

or a bunkhouse next to a hotel or "the most haunted house in the UK" (Drover's Inn)
The Bar at Drover's Inn                                    photo by Margaret della Santina

or "glamping" in the tube of a "pod,"
                                                                                        photo by Diana Coogle

and, first things first, a beer at the hotel bar
                                                                            photo by Margaret della Santina

or down the street in the oldest consecutively operated pub in Scotland (since 1752)
                                                                                        photo by Diana Coogle

or at the bar of Drover's Inn, where the wait staff wore tee shirts that said, "Voted best pub 1703."
    Margaret della Santina hiked every step with me, even with a bum knee, which she iced every evening when we got to our inn and which didn't keep her from loving every minute of the trail. Because she was walking carefully, when we came to a hill, she would say, "See you at the top," and I would take off at my usual steady pace. At one especially raw-weather moment, as she walked up to me where I waited on a beautiful old stone bridge in the cold wind and driving rain,
                                        photo by Margaret della Santina

she said,
 gleefully, "This is what we signed up for!" And indeed, yes. It was Scotland, after all.
    On the third day, Margaret studied the map and came up with a plan for changing our itinerary. We could hike as planned to Inversnaid but then taking a ferry across Loch Lomond to Tarbet and a bus from there to our lodging, cutting out seven miles of a planned 15-mile day and adding a lovely ferry ride on the lake.
                                                                            photo by Margaret della Santina

(We made up those miles with extra hiking to our various lodgings to equal the 96 miles of the trail.)
    The end of the West Highland Way is in Fort William, at the Statue of the Man with Sore Feet.
                                                photo by a willing passer-by

(How appropriately depicted!) That night Margaret and I toasted our accomplishment with a glass of Prosecco. Not a small feat, I said as we clinked glasses
, for the lame and the old.
                                                                                        selfie by Diana Coogle

    
    
    

Friday, June 19, 2026

Singer the Whale swims again, Part 2

     Because details of installation were still taking place and the inside of the building still a hard-hat construction zone, the guests at the inauguration ceremony were looking at the whale through the large windows. Champagne was passed around, and the ceremony began. 

    Bianca Perla, founder and director of the Vashon Nature Center, who had the original inspiration for the project and approached Ela about being the sculptor, gave a beautiful speech, focused on the many things that Singer had brought the community. There were other brief speeches; then it was Ela's turn. 
    He looked for a moment at the assembled, excited crowd, then said, "This is an emotional moment for me," as indeed it must have been. He admitted he missed the bones, which had been in his studio since last fall. The most important part of his speech was to introduce the friends who had become his crew, three guys who had shown up one by one, wanting to join the project, brilliant men with engineering minds and aesthetic sensibilities. 
                                                                                    unknown photographer
Ela and his crew at the Art Center, before the sculpture went up 
(l-r) Kevin Flick, Rob Wheeler, Ela Lamblin, Wes Cherry, Bob Powell
 One by one, as Ela called for them, they appeared in the doorway in their hard hats. Ela explained how Singer would not now be in place without the contribution of each one. 
    Then the ceremony was over, and cake was served. Congratulations poured out. People were awed. What a magnificent thing, they said. What a work of art and engineering. What a tribute to the whale, Singer himself.
    The next day I went back to the Art Center to walk under the bones without the buzz of the crowd. The peace of the space was soothing, the pace of the tail conducive, in its rhythmic motion, to contemplation and understanding. I lay on the floor and peered into the ribs.
I found the vestigial pelvic bones, the scapula,
the jugal.
The jugal is in the center of the photo.
I touched for the last time the finger-like bones of the flippers, which Ela would attach in a few days.
The flipper bones. Note the chair for size comparison.
 I watched the slow mesmeric movement of the long tail propelling Singer through the sea. I imagined the expulsion of water and mud through the baleen, leaving in the massive mouth the tiny crustaceans Singer fed on. And there in the silence of the space, I mourned Singer's death by starvation. Warming seas are depleting his Arctic feeding grounds of the food he needs for the long migration to Mexico, and he died on the way. We can look at the sculpture in the Vashon Arts Center and feel the magnificence of this creature. I love his bones; I love the beauty of the sculpture; I am privileged to witness it; I am over-the-top excited for the artist and his team; I will always love to stand again in Singer's presence, to feel the powerful movement of the body, to lie under the bones, to admire the intricate beauty of the sculpture, and to honor the spirit of this great creature who has come back to us in this form to remind us of who we are in relation to all beings on this earth.
A few days later, with the flippers attached.      photo by Ela Lamblin

Wednesday, June 17, 2026

Singer, the Whale, swims again, Part 1

    When I arrived at the Vashon Center for the Arts three days before the inauguration of my son, Ela Lamblin's, sculpture—skeleton, steel-outlined body, and suspension structure—of Singer, the gray whale (see post on November 5, 2025), the bones were still on the floor. I entered the ribs and walked through them, like Jonah, who, if he was my height, would have been walking almost upright.
I am in front, Ela in back.             Photo by Michelle Bates

I caressed the bones for the last time. The whale was going up, to hang from the ceiling of the Art Center and to imply, by swimming through the air, how Singer had once swum through the sea.
    Now I had a better idea of the scale of the project, from the tiniest, most intricate creating of beautiful, spliced (not knotted) cables 
Kevin Flick splicing the cables that will hold up the sculpture
to the joining of the bones and the sculpting and building of the steel framework; from the immense size and weight of the skull to the delicacy of the jugal, the smallest bone in the whale's body; from the millions of years during which the whale evolved its complicated mechanisms of structure and movement that allowed it to cease being a land creature and return to the sea—to the centuries of math and science that resulted in the mechanism, beautiful in itself, that Ela and his team of brilliant engineers devised to allow the tail to move in graceful, up-and-down sweeps.  
Each wheel turns a different set of vertebrae to make the tail move.

The entire length of the tail moves in a swimming motion.
    It took a long day for the tail to go up. The intricacies were unimaginable. The data on the computer was checked and rechecked. Skeleton and distances were measured and remeasured with various methods: tape measures, laser, pacing. Once the tail was up, would it be in the right place? Was the space for the skull and ribs correct? Did a whole whate really fit in the building? More than one person on the crew told me his neck was sore from looking up so much. 
    And then, at last, the tail went up.
This whole assembly will be lifted to the ceiling.
    I didn't see the skull go up a couple of days later because I was hosting the party Ela had planned to hold at his house before the inauguration ceremony, scheduled for 6:30 that evening. Ela wasn't at the party because he was still helping install the skull. He told me at midday that he didn't think it would happen in time, but just before 6:00 it looked like all preparations were ready. There was a count-down, and the skull was raised to join the tail at the ceiling. 
    I left the party for the Art Center at 6:10. The guests would have to see themselves out. 
Singer with some of the rigging still attached and
missing the flippers, but in place at the art center.
   
Next post: The inauguration ceremony
(All photos by Diana Coogle unless otherwise noted.)